Being Suspended In The Air ...

I spent the past few days in Gunung Mulu National Park, where I was totally cut off from civilisation, with almost no access to internet (even if there was access, there was only one terminal and takes forever to load a page), and no access to a telephone as my mobile fell into the river and spoilt. Since I was in the middle of a jungle, with the nearest town a twenty-five minute plane ride away, there was no way I could contact anyone.

To top it off, I seemed to go at a time of heavy rainfall. It rained everyday, from late afternoon to night, and throughout the night to the following morning. Since it is a rainforest, the rain came down in torrents. If not for the tall trees that kind of sheltered me, I would have been drenched everyday. And since it was raining almost throughout the night, electricity was off around ten in the evening, so I had to sleep in the dark with no fan, no air-conditioning, and hear the lashing of the rain outside the windows of my room.

When I first knew I was going to Sarawak, the first thing that came into my mind after the Rainforest Festival was the famous caves. I always thought it was the caves at Miri, until I realised Mulu was not in Miri. On the map, Miri is next to Brunei, in fact it takes only about a couple of hours to drive to Brunei from Miri. Mulu is below Brunei. Hence I thought Mulu is accessible to Miri. 

Unfortunately, because it is a large forested area that covers almost a quarter of eastern Sarawak (yes, much much bigger than where I came from), and being a UNESCO Heritage site, those working there plan to keep the place as intact as possible, hence Mulu is not accessible by any form of land transport. People had to fly in, even if it was going to be a very short flight.

Luckily, I managed to get a direct return flight from Kuching and back to Miri at a very good price, so I flew direct to Mulu from Kuching on Tuesday 17 July. It was around an hour and a half from Kuching, and the plane was a super small one, taking in only thirty passengers the most. It was a twin propeller plane, and the first time I was taking this type of plane!

 The twin propeller plane I took to Mulu

 Despite the small plane and short distance, I was actually impressed that a light breakfast was served complimentary!

 Aerial View of Mulu

 Runway of Mulu Airport

Mulu Airport is a very tiny airport. I have no idea how people used to go to Mulu in the past, but because it is such a popular tourist destination, there are people who actually work there full-time, hence the airport serves the employees and guests. It is so tiny that the arrival and departure halls are in the same place, as there is only one flight to Kuching, three times a week, and if we miss that flight, will have to wait two days later. There are two flights to Miri everyday, but again, if we miss the later flight, one is stranded until the next day.

 Mulu Airport - smallest I have ever seen

 Arrival Hall of Mulu Airport. Incidentally this was the same place I departed for my flight to Miri

Since the airport is so small, the place is non airconditioned. Planes did not even land on the "doorstep", we had to climb down the stairs of the plane and walk to the entrance (or exit?), and wait at the luggage conveyor for our luggage. Luggage were taken from the plane and strewn all over, with a few items placed by the airport staff each time. So I had to wait my turn for my luggage.

 The entire luggage conveyor belt

When I exited the airport, minivans were waiting to pick passengers up to the resort. No prior booking is needed as there are operators exclusively picking and dropping people off at the airport everyday, so one just need to grab one of the operators to go to the National Park. The rate is cheap too - RM7.00 per way or RM10.00 for a return coupon.

Since I was travelling solo, the minivan driver put me together with an Australian family consisting of a father, mother and teenaged son. I would be meeting the same family often, as we took the same flight to Mulu, the same minivan, and would join the same cave expedition tour together. I even met them at the Miri Airport when I departed as they were transferring to Kota Kinabalu from Miri. But more of that later.

It was about a five minute journey to the National Park. We passed by lots and lots and lots and lots of greenery. I must say, Mulu National Park has nothing but trees, as befitting any rainforest.

 Road from airport going to the National Park

The minivan dropped us at the entrance, which is served by a 1.5km boardwalk, and it was a hassle trying to take my luggage together to go into the Park Headquarters. I was carrying a trolley bag so one can imagine just how difficult it is to wheel the bag over the entire boardwalk as the floors are made of wood and not smooth. Why do the people assume everyone is carrying backpacks to go there?

When I reached the Park Headquarters, I breathed a sigh of relief as it was airconditioned! I started to take the keys to my accommodation and confirm my tours. On the first day I was in Mulu, I signed up for the Canopy Walk in the afternoon and the Night Trail in the evening.

Actually my flight to Mulu was late (a common occurrence), so by the time I reached the Park Headquarters, it was only fifteen minutes to the Canopy Walk. But the girl at the reception counter told me not to worry, I just checked in first and then join the tour accordingly. So I checked into my accommodation (more on that later) and proceeded with the Canopy Walk.

 Entrance to Park Headquarters

When I went back to Park Headquarters, the group had left. But knowing that I just checked in, one of the staff called the guide and he turned back to get me. How nice! :-) So I walked in the direction the staff pointed and met the guide halfway through before he brought me to join the rest of the people in the same tour.

The Mulu Canopy Walk is a very long suspension bridge about four hundred and fifty metres above ground. It is supposed to be the longest suspension bridge in the world. Ironically, I have not even tried the Treetops Walk in MacRitchie Reservoir, which I presume is about the same but pales in comparison. Along the way to the start of the Canopy Walk, I passed by a long boardwalk and saw the scenery around the National Park, like fast-flowing rivers, stick insects (a lot of them), large flowers, large trees and many signs along the way.

 First time I came across a stick insect. This would be one of many stick insects I would see.

 Another stick insect

 I was supposed to go to the Paku Waterfall on the third day I was in Mulu, but due to a very hectic trek the previous day, I decided to take it easy

 This is a gigantic flower (yes, actual size, I did not zoom)

 Stairs leading to the canopy skywalk

When I went up the stairs, the start of the canopy walk is in a little alcove, with a very narrow suspension bridge, so narrow that only one can step on at a time. This suspension bridge will go ten rounds (at least I think it was ten as I did not really count. Try counting when you were swinging high up in the air and not sure if you could make it out to the other side.) before coming back to the original starting place.

 Start of the Mulu Canopy Sywalk (look at the suspension bridge!)

There is some information regarding the Canopy Walk in the alcove. The alcove itself is so small that it can cater to only five a time, so the rest have to wait outside for the first five to move off before stepping in.

 The people before me stepping onto the alcove. I had to wait until the first one reached the other side before I could proceed onto the bridge.

 View of the trees from the Canopy Skywalk

 Stepping slowly ...

Since there are ten (?) suspension bridges, at the end of each suspension leading to the next, there would be a small covered platform with signs and information, like the one on Aerial Plants below. Hence we not only get to experience being high up in the air, but also get some knowledge at the same time!

 A sign of information in between the suspension bridges

 Only on the Canopy Skywalk could I actually see the top of trees. So one can just imagine how high it really is!

 This is how narrow the bridge actually is

 Ray of sunlight seeping in between the trees

 Part of the length of the suspension bridge

Finally I came to the end of the Canopy Skywalk. It was not hard at all. Initially I was told the whole Canopy Skywalk would take two hours, but I finished mine in about an hour. Not having a fear of heights is also an advantage as I could still walk relatively fast even while suspending and swinging high up in the air. I can just imagine how those who fear heights would react.

Once we got back to the starting point, it was the end of the walk, and we could then make our way back in leisure. This trek is relatively straight forward, as we only needed to go back the same way we came from, hence no guidance was needed for us to go back. 

However, if one is to venture into any of the other treks, particularly those leading into the caves and beyond, then a licensed guide has to accompany you for the whole journey. Please do not act smart and try to venture on your own, trust me, you will definitely get lost and the last thing anyone wants is to report a missing person.

On the way back to the National Park Headquarters, I passed by more big trees and insects. Despite being well-maintained by the Sarawak Forestry department, Mulu National Park is still relatively messy as in there are dead branches and leaves everywhere and there is no proper trail. One really has to rely on survival instincts to find our way out, even though this is supposed to be an easier trek than others.

 A big water lily leaf

 The boardwalk leading back to the Park Headquarters

Since it was still early when I returned to Park Headquaters, I decided to wander around the area before going for the Night Trail later on. The Park Headquarters is made to look like a garden, with flowers, plants, bungalows and other kinds of houses scattered here and there, not to mention a cafe and gift shop.

 Some kind of beetle

 Map of Mulu National Park at one of the rest pavilions

 This is one of the longhouse rooms for accommodation

 One of the bungalows for accommodation

 Late evening, and the sun was about to set

 Another bungalow

 There is even a futsal court in the middle of the Park Headquarters!

 Walkway to another bungalow

 The park security house

Several glass plaques are situated near the entrance of the Park Headquarters, commemorating Mulu National Park being given World Heritage status.

 This leads to the boardwalk leading to the pick up and drop off point

 The boardwalk leading to the pick up and drop off point. See how problematic trolley luggage bags will be due to the structure of the floorboards?

 River near the entrance (think it is called the Long Langsat River)

 The other end of the boardwalk directly linking to the pick up and drop off point

 A restaurant run by local natives just outside the Park Headquarters

 The pick up and drop off point for visitors to the park. We had to lug our luggages all the way via the boardwalk to Park Headquarters to check in.

 I think this dog belonged to one of the natives, but it was following me around

 The coach shelter to alight and be picked up

After exploring the entrance, I decided to have an early dinner and made my way to the cafe. The cafe is actually a little wooden hut facing a piece of green field. The gift shop is situated in one corner of the cafe.

 The cafe of Mulu National Park

 A bench outside the cafe

 Interior of the cafe

 Picnic tables outside the cafe

 

 I was given this map when I checked in to help in the navigation of the place

 Banners outside the office

The gift shop sells all the quaint things made by the locals too. There are about twenty tribes in Sarawak itself, and all the guides (save for one) are local natives from one of the tribes. For instance, the guide that brought me on the Canopy Skywalk belongs to a branch of the Penan tribe.

 Local products displayed in the gift shop

 I was so tempted to buy this mask, but then again, what would I do with it?

All in all, it was a very enriching and adventurous trip to Mulu. It was really an experience unlike many others. I managed to make the most of my time there. I am never the "roughing it" kind, but I am rather surprised at myself that I can actually be stranded in the jungle and survived with nary a scratch.

Hence when I left three days later on Friday 20 July, I felt a sense of sadness as I have not explored a large part of this gigantic rainforest. Well... perhaps another time, when I am more prepared to take on more challenging cave adventures!

Bye bye Mulu